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Archive for January, 2011
Sunday, January 30th, 2011
So I’m not entirely sure whether these are meant as an appetizer, dessert, or for breakfast. I optioned for the latter as I’ve had a hankering for pancakes and every time I open the fridge there are several bottles (bought and gifted) of maple syrup staring back at me. Having thoroughly enjoyed Judith Jones book The Tenth Muse, I wanted to celebrate her legendary literary career (for those who have never stepped into the cookbook aisle, she is the editor for such late food heroines as Edna Lewis and Julia Childs) and oblige my pancake craving. Leeks and sorrel also seemed a tad healthier than the chocolate chips I often toss into the batter. More than likely this recipe does not come to you in time for today’s breakfast, but I hope you find a space for it one other morning. It may not be for everyone, certainly I cannot admit any great love for sorrel, but for those (like me) who appreciate leeks it is quite tasty. I’m not sure what Ms. Jones would think of my putting (real Maine) maple syrup on her pancakes, but then the chances of her reading this post are about as great as me winning the lottery (and I do not buy tickets). She recommends a dollop of creme fraiche (wish I could) or sour cream or a wedge of lemon (might try that next time). Enjoy however and whenever you make these…oh, and by all means buy her book it is a treasure.

Sorrel and Leek Pancakes from Judith Jones The Tenth Muse
Ingredients:
3 good-size leeks
1 large bunch of sorrel (about 2 cups)
2 Tbsp butter
2 eggs
1/4 cup flour
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Vegetable oil or light olive oil
Directions:
Discard any coarse outer leaves of the leeks, and cut off the tops where the leaves turn darkish green. Quarter the leeks lengthwise, and wash carefully. Drain, pat dry, and cut into small pieces. Remove any coarse stems from the sorrel, then rinse the leaves, dry them, and cut into strips. Heat the butter in a large saute pan, and cook the leeks covered, over low heat until tender, about 7 minutes. Add the sorrel leaves, and cook, covered, 2 minutes. Remove to a bowl, and let cool slightly.
Beat the eggs in a separate bowl, and whisk in the flour and 1/4 tsp salt until smooth. Combine with the leeks and sorrel; taste, and add a few grindings of pepper and more salt if necessary.
Film the bottom of a large frying pan with enough oil to cover, and set over medium-high heat. When hot, drop the leek-sorrel batter in, by the spoonful. Press down lightly to flatten each pancake into a circle about 2 1/3 inches diameter. Cook them, adding a little more oil as needed, in two or three batches, over medium heat, for 3 to 4 minutes on each side.

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Saturday, January 29th, 2011
This meal (or snack if shared with friends) of Veggie Cheese Nachos (by all means, if you can have real cheese substitute it in.. unfortunately I cannot as I am lactose intolerant) and guacamole is one of my favorite comfort foods. For the longest time I have tried to replicated a couple different friends recipes with garlic, lemon juice, tomato, and yet the don’t do all that much for me in the end. Somehow my guacamole has been sort of boring, get by good enough for me, nothing I would put out for guests. Thank you Martha Rose and your recipe for guacamole as detailed in the wonderful Supper Club: Chez Martha Rose. A professional cookbook writer, Shulman left Texas in the early 1980s to live (and eat) inFrance. She began her supper club shortly after as a way to make new friends and test recipes. The book is a month by month culinary voyage of semi-vegetarian minded menus (poultry, cheese, and fish are often included, but not the red meats one often finds in French food). January is Viva Mexico! featuring dishes inspired by a holiday vacation in Cancun, Mexico. The guacamole recipe is spot on, or at least I think so having found no worthy opponent for it in all my days of guacamole eating. Without further adieu…

Guacamole by Martha Rose Shulman from Supper Club: Chez Martha Rose
Ingredients:
3 ripe medium-size or large Haas avocados (the knobby, dark-skinned kind)
5 ripe tomatoes (2 chopped, 3 fairly large ones sliced in half)
Juice of 1 to 2 lemons, to taste
1/2 small red onion, very finely minced
1 small clove garlic, minced or put through a press (**I think pressing garlic kills the flavor)
1/4 tsp ground cumin, or more to taste
1/4 tsp ground chili powder, or more to taste
Salt to taste
Fresh coriander and tortilla chips (**buy her book for a great homemade recipe) for garnish
Directions:
Cut the avocados in half, pit, and scoop out the flesh. Mash, using a pestle or a heavy wooden spoon. Add the chopped tomatoes and lemon juice and continue to mash. Stir in the onion, garlic, cumin, chili powder, and salt to taste.
Picture of avocados Raising Foodies via Pinterest.
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Friday, January 28th, 2011
When you talk to a chef it is a different kind of conversation like talking to a musician or a painter. A chef sees things differently, thinks differently. I should add, the kind of chef I am referencing is one deserving of the title “chef” ..say someone like Sam Hayward of Fore Street who has won awards (James Beard), co-owns a successful (as in most talked about in the foodie city of Portland) restaurant, has thirty plus years in the business, and who (anyone who has met him or eaten at Fore Street knows) enjoys preparing fresh foods. My friend Annie is a chef, and while she may not have any awards, that woman turns out some of the best most intelligent, delicious, soul satisfying, memorable food I have ever eaten. She has a large edible garden, keeps chickens, reads about food, studied baking at the CIA, takes “nose to tail” classes on a Maine farm so she can make homemade foie gras, makes her own vanilla, keeps 100-year-old sourdough starter, and has taught me everything from how to roast a chicken (VERY fun story behind that one) to the difference between spices and herbs. I am not a gourmand, I am not trained, I just love good solid food made with fresh ingredients and not a lot of cream or butter to cover it up. So maybe what I am writing is so incredibly basic you are scratching your chin going so? Well, just trust me sit down at a table to Sam or Annie’s food and you will just understand. Where am I going with all this, a few weeks ago I was lucky enough to sign on to work on a project Sam Hayward is involved with and I’ve been friends with Annie for years (just search Anne Mahle on this blog and you’ll see my love affair with her food and appreciation of her family/friendship). Well, Annie and I went to Fore Street the other night to celebrate a few holidays (busy schedules and all), a birthday (hers), and my new account. Scratch “account” working on a project with Sam Hayward is more of a dream or an experience.
What we ate:
Oysters from Little Bay, Mill Cove, and Bagaduce River (New Hampshire and Maine)
Chicken Liver Pate with Cider and Allspice Gelee, Maine Farm Rabbit Terrine with Shitakes and Leeks, and admittedly only Annie partook of this dish..Corned Beef Tongue with Sauerkraut and Horseradish Mayonnaise.
Atlantic Bluefish Filet with Braised Red Cabbage, Cauliflower, Fennel, Almond Vinaigrette (me) and Half Pekin Duck with Roasted Potatoes and Squash, Maderia Braised Onions (Annie)
Garden Carrots with Brown Sugar Butter and Cayenne and Roasted Cauliflower with Oil Cured Olive Vinaigrette (SO good).
Pear Gingerbread Cake with Caramel Sauce and Buttermilk Ice Cream (alas only Annie could partake of the ice cream).

Photo of Sam Hayward at Fore Street by Jon Levitt.
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Posted in Friends, Portland Maine | 1 Comment »
Thursday, January 27th, 2011
Hi. I know, it has been a few days since I’ve posted. This note is a lot like the incredibly brief written and oral responses my friends have been getting the last two weeks during spare moments. Those brief, but beautiful pauses between what seems like a constant battering of intake and an ever growing TO DO list. What would I do without my lists. Oh, yes, I’m a lister. Hand-written and electronic. Anyway, some of the “stuff” going on is fun and exciting and one especially big project I’ll be sharing with you all in a few months. Just breathe is what I keep telling myself, just breathe – and no those are not instructions from a lamaze instructor. One project I can tell you about now, which while time consuming, is also fun or FUN. We know I love food, especially Maine food, so it just seemed natural that I would become the all things kitchen related columnist for themaineblog. The column titled “Ingredients” is an opportunity for me to hand-pick the craftsmen, producers, and tastemakers from Maine who contribute to kitchens and appetites in and far beyond the borders of Maine. Bartenders, chefs (on windjammers, in white tablecloth restaurants..), dairy farmers, fishermen, specialty food producers, craftsmen who make dining room tables or spoons, cookbook authors, the random off the beaten path guy who makes salt way up and over from where I live in Portland, and so on and on.

Visit here for my first column. I was fortunate enough to get Bob Matus, a craftsman in Midcoast Maine who makes beautiful hand carved wooden spoons to agree to answer my questions. I loved his responses. Getting to know the people behind the edible and non-edible things I have in my kitchen makes me cherish them all that much more or not. If not they are gone and then you will not be hearing about them, because well I want to be only positive in this column (mostly like this blog). If I tell you about something it is because I love it, if I don’t it either means I don’t know about it, have not written about it yet and will, have not written about it because I have not figured out how to cover it (whatever it is) in a different angle than the dozens of others who have, or well plain and simple I don’t like it or the person behind it. Bob’s spoons will continue to be in my kitchen and I can see gifting them as long as he makes them. A genuine person with great spirit and such talent.

**I was and will shortly get back to also doing the “Darkroom” column profiling Maine photographers for themaineblog.com. Hope you enjoy!
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Sunday, January 23rd, 2011
So, my beloved Chicago Bears will not advance to the Super Bowl (Jay Cutler I have words for you, but Brian Urlacher you rock regardless). Well, at least it was a good game and the Packers are a solid (as opposed to glamour) team. I have followed the Bears for years, and as I told my friends before the game started it is all in the first offensive play. The quarterback has always been the Bears Achilles’ heel and Culter is no exception. He came in having a bad day and went downhill from there. It is sad to watch when this happens. At this point a Bears fan knows the outcome (the Bears very rarely recover from a bad quarterback day) and just has to sit and watch the defense do their best between what is an extraordinary number of (pretty bad) commercials. Now, I am thinking you did not visit this blog with the intention of getting a sports rundown so let’s segue to food and other fun stuff.

This is my kind of Maine weekend, spent with friends cooking, talking food, drinking beer, and watching football. It is COLD outside (from car to house is about as far as you want to go without being wrapped in wool and fleece), so reclining on the sofa or standing in front of a warm stove is the thing to do. I managed a bit of both, starting with making chocolate chip cookies. How good are these warm out of the oven, um really good. How good the next day with some tea, still really good. Really though, when are chocolate chip cookies not good? These are thin and crispy and not too sweet so you can eat a few at a time, and turned out just as the recipe described. Of course, don’t take my word for it, by all means make these one cool day when you need something yummy with your tea.

Flat and Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies from Saveur, based on one published in The Essential New York Times Cookbook
Ingredients:
2 cups flour
1 scant Tbsp kosher salt
1 1 /4 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 cups packed light brown sugar
1 1/4 cups sugar
16 Tbsp unsalted butter, softened
2 eggs
1 Tbsp vanilla extract
12 oz. finely shaved bittersweet chocolate (*I love Scharffen Berger)
8 oz. finely ground walnuts
Directions:
Whisk flour, salt, and baking soda in a bowl; set aside. In a bowl, beat sugars and butter with a mixer on medium speed until fluffy, 1–2 minutes. Beat in eggs one at a time; beat in vanilla. Add reserved flour mixture, chocolate, and nuts; mix until just combined; chill.
Heat oven to 325°. Divide dough into 1-tbsp. portions; roll into balls, transfer to parchment paper–lined baking sheets spaced 3″ apart, and flatten. Bake until set, about 15 minutes.
Yield: 60 cookies
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Friday, January 21st, 2011
Have a marvelous weekend. Stay warm too! We are expecting single digit temps starting I think tonight. Well, cleaned off the car (snowed all morning, so pretty) and tomorrow am heading north to Camden and Rockland to cook, watch football (GO Bears!) and see friends. I am making this for a dinner party tomorrow night and made these just for the fun of it today (what else is a girl to do during her lunch break on a snowy day in Maine??). Will post about both desserts next week. Oh, and so excited going to get to have hot cocoa with my dear chocolate making friend Kate. It really is going to be a sweet weekend! Going to play with the Hipstamatic app. on my iPhone (become obsessed with downloading different films and trying out different flashes). Have you tried it? What do you think?
xo
p.s. how cool is everything this woman is wearing! I actually have a leather jacket a lot like the one on her, but hello those red gloves and how it is all put together (not 100% sure about the scarf/sweater).

Image from Cool and Chic.
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Friday, January 21st, 2011
I did not write about the “Mad Men” themed party I attended on New Year’s at the coolest bar in Boston (okay, Sommerville), but hopefully sharing these prints of “Mad Men” regulars by Stanley Chow will make up for it. His work is ridiculously good.

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Thursday, January 20th, 2011
It is winter, and that means soup! I’ve been staying up the last few nights to cook, because the days have been so busy. As in yesterday morning the phone did not stop ringing for three hours. I meant to make this soup for dinner, but instead I got as far as brussels sprouts and parmesan. That was pretty good too! Oh, but this soup as soon as I dropped the leeks into the butter that glorious smell. Then all those spices, heaven. My house just suddenly transported to this warm yummy place. Want to know what the forecast here in Maine is: snow, tonight and tomorrow. Then temps between 4 and 18. Actually, once you put on as many layers as I do to go for a long walk outside you are warm or at least comfortable. When I get “dressed up” (in Maine that would be non-snow boots like my beloved Frye ankle boots, tight jeans, and a pretty top with a coat that does not resemble one’s bed comforter) I think my body just freezes – sort of an insta freeze so there is no chance to notice the cold between wherever I am and wherever I am parked (alas not a super public transportation system here). Days when it is 4 outside, sunny, no wind are actually pretty manageable. I can’t believe I’m writing this, when I first arrived here from Los Angeles I wore big wool sweaters when the temps dipped below 70. But, back to the soup! I’ll be making more of this soup and buying less store bought. The thing (one of the many) about learning to cook is you almost never make the same thing more once with exceptions being this soup, a couple pasta dishes, vegetables with olive oil and sea salt, breakfast stuff, and a couple beloved kinds of chocolate-chip cookies. Lunch is leftovers from some new thing I made for dinner. I love that and I feel so much better about not buying all this packaged stuff at the market that even if it is recycled somehow or another does not help the environment. Plus, the lovely smells in my house and the warm oven a true comfort in winter (yes, of course we Maine residents have heat too). I also feel like I accomplish something when I cook, which is more than I can say for some days on the job. But wait, we got away from the soup again. It is a beautiful, delicious, warm your soul soup so please try it.

Carrot and Sweet Potato Soup with Ginger from Farmer John’s Cookbook by John Peterson and Angelic Organics
Ingredients:
1/2 cup chopped raw, unsalted cashews
3 Tbsp butter
1 1/2 cups chopped leeks or onion (about 1 large or 2 small leeks or 1 large onion)
2 Tbsp finely chopped or grated fresh ginger
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground fennel seeds
1/4 tsp ground allspice
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
2 pounds carrots, roughly cut into 1/2-inch chunks (10-12 medium carrots) – available locally this time of year in New England at Whole Foods Market, indoor farmers’ markets, and via winter CSA’s.
1/2 pound peeled, diced sweet potato (about 1 large sweet potato) - available locally this time of year in New England at Whole Foods Market, indoor farmers’ markets, and via winter CSA’s.
4 cups vegetable or chicken stock or water plus more to thin the soup
2 Tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice
1 tsp salt
to taste freshly ground black pepper or cayenne pepper
plain yogurt or sour cream
chopped fresh chives
Directions:
Toast the cashews in a dry, heavy skillet (preferably cast iron) over high heat until they start to brown in spots and become fragrant. (Be careful not to over toast them, as they will burn very quickly once they are toasted.) Immediately transfer the nuts to a dish to cool.
Melt the butter in a soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the leeks or onion; cook stirring frequently, for 8 minutes. Add the ginger, cumin, cinnamon, fennel, allspice, and nutmeg; cook, stirring, for 1 minute more.
Add the carrots, sweet potatoes, and stock or water; stir to combine. Partially cover the pot, reduce the heat to medium, and bring to a simmer. Cook until the carrots and potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
Transfer the mixture to a blender (you may need to work in batches). Add the toasted cashews and process to a smooth puree. If it seems too thick for soup, add a little more stock or water.
Transfer the soup back to the pot. Add the orange juice, salt, and pepper to taste.
Gently heat the soup over medium heat, stirring frequently, until hot. Ladle the soup into individual cups and place a dollop of yogurt or sour cream int the center of each. Garnish with chives.
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Tuesday, January 18th, 2011
This recipe should come with the label “do try this at home.” Hello homemade candied citrus peel. Delicious, and what better time of year to do this? Yes, that’s right you need your Vitamin C now more than ever. Especially those of you, who like me, live in a cold (bitter cold these days) climate. Not that you need a reason to make these, I mean really let’s think about this…citrus, sugar, and a bit of hot water. I don’t know about you, but those ingredients sound mighty fine to me right now. Oh, see and all I have to do is walk over to the counter pop open the box and voila there they are my little citrus candied gems. So pretty, fun, and yummy. Now you can do it!
To market…rather than go with the hum drum regular old citrus fruits get spunky by throwing a couple Tangelo oranges and Meyer lemons into the mix.

Candied Citrus Peel by Anita Chu in the October, 2010 issue of Fine Cooking
Ingredients:
3 cups citrus peel (from oranges, grapefruit, lemons)
2 1/2 cups granulated sugar
Directions:
Using a sharp knife, cut the fruit lengthwise into eighths; then cut off the zest along with a thin layer of the white pith. Slice the peels into 1/4-inch-wide strips. Save the fruit for another use.
Put the sliced peels in a 3-quart heavy-duty saucepan and add enough water to cover. Bring to a boil over high heat and blanch for 5 minutes.
Drain the peels, cover with fresh water, bring to a boil, and blanch again for 5 minutes. Repeat once more for a total of three blanchings.
In the same saucepan, combine 1 1/2 cups of the sugar and 1 cup of water; bring to a boil over high heat.
Add the peels and reduce the heat to low. Let the peels simmer very gently – the mixture should be just slightly bubbling – until they begin to look translucent, 45 to 60 minutes. Stir occasionally to ensure that the peels candy evenly and don’t burn.
Drain the peels, reserving the syrup for another use. Set a rack over a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. Put the remaining 1 cup of sugar in a bowl. Roll the peels in the sugar, shake them in a sieve to remove any excess, and spread them on the rack; let dry for 5 to 6 hours. Once fully dry, store the candied peels in an airtight container in a cool dry place for up to 1 month. ***When I did this I left the peels drying for 7 hours and still had to put them in the oven at 250 for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes I turned the oven off and let them sit drying in the oven. That did the trick. This was my first time making candied citrus peel so if you have any experience/suggestions I would love to have your input.
Yield: about 3 cups; serves 24

Especially delicious on cupcakes with buttercream frosting (flavored with a tiny bit of orange extract).

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